Not a lot of good options at this point:
Wait for RAM to come back down to hit a more competitive price point. Could take years, during which the hardware performance is aging and losing competitive edge.
Release this year at a higher price point, and risk the price killing adoption rates, potentially dooming the hardware.
At least with option #2 we will get the steam controller sooner, since it’s price probably won’t be negatively impacted by RAM.
You can get wegovy 28-day of the auto injectors through Amazon pharmacy for $200 a month without insurance. It still requires a prescription, but it sounds like you have that.
Obviously it would be better if your insurance would cover it, but $200 a month is better than the $600 a month some people are paying for ozempic/etc.
When signing up for insurance, you’ll want to check their approved medications. My wife was prescribed mounjaro for her diabetes, but most of the insurance plans we looked at didn’t have it listed as one of their approved medicines. It was one of the largest factors in deciding which insurance we needed to go with.
Biggest thing (from what I understand) is that losing weight too rapidly will result in significant muscle loss. Losing muscle also lowers your metabolism, which can lead to rapid weight gain when you get off the drug.
This isn’t glp-1 drug specific, and can be offset by exercise, eating more protein, etc.
I’ve mostly been playing Like A Dragon: Pirate Yakuza on Hawaii. It’s been a great time so far, easily the silliest Yakuza game I’ve played. I prefer the turn based combat of the newer mainline games to the beat-em-up combat of this one and the originals, but I’m still having a great time with it.
Been playing Monster Hunter Wilds with a friend, and as you know, Deck performance is pretty rough. However I was able to get it to run acceptably enough.
Finally been replaying an older game I had called “A Robot Named Fight”. It’s basically Super Metroid, but as a rogue-like. It’s a lot of fun, really captures a lot of the fun of those games while having every run feel different.
A few ideas:
You may want to try disabling steam input for the game, and just using the game’s built in controller support. Go to the game’s page in your steam library, hit the gear, go to properties>controller, and then pick disable steam input. Then try the game and see if it works any better.
On PC if the game supports a walk keybind, with steam input enabled you could bind that to a back button, and then hold it down to walk.
You said you tweaked deadzones, but was that in the game’s settings or in the steam input settings? You may want to try editing the other one (ie lowering the deadzone size in steam controller settings, adjusting the deadzone size/type in game, and adjusting the stick response curve in game)
You can also check community control profiles, the top ones may have a work around to fix it, or there’s probably one that’s simulating mouse/keyboard that would bypass this issue completely.
NonSteamLaunchers may be the easiest way, but it’s no longer on the decky store due to some drama stuff. Instead you download the zip file, unzip it, and then place the whole folder into ~/homebrew/plugins. Restart steam and it should show up.
Otherwise I’ve used bottles on desktop to install it. Unfortunately Lutris installs are becoming increasingly unreliable in my experience.
It is rendering at a lower setting, and then using fsr/etc to upscale. It’s basically necessary to run the game at all.
However the shaky frame rate issues are probably more an optimization issue, and will be hard (or impossible) to get rid of.
Thanks, posted this from my phone and didn’t even notice the title issues.
It apparently used to say it on Valve’s official FAQ for the steam deck, but it’s since been rewritten to only mention the bios method. I found a 4 year old reddit post where they directly quoted the older version of the page.
I also confirmed on my Steam Deck that it works, I was able to get the double blue led flash (which confirms you’ve entered battery storage mode on the OLED) by plugging the deck in, turning it off, holding vol+ and QAM for 10 seconds, and then unplugging the Deck (while still holding the buttons)
He said it was the quick access button (QAM), which is the “. . .” button, not the select button. You can also see him pressing it in the video with his right thumb.
Also I finally found it, that button combo puts the Deck in battery storage mode.
Remnant 2 is acceptable, I played through it with a friend some months back. Can’t use any framegen with it (even lsfg) or the input lag is horrible, and the framerate is never stable, but it was able to hold a shaky 30 for basically my whole playthrough, while looking decent.
Huh, is that a new shortcut, or did they get confused about the UEFI reset shortcut:
Hold down Volume Down+Power+⋯ (“Three Dots” button under the right touchpad) to reset the UEFI settings to their defaults (keep the two buttons other than Power held after the first blink of the LED: the LED will blink during the operation and stop once done, then release the buttons).
I’ve never heard of volume up+… as a functional shortcut before.
EDIT I found what it is, that button combo (followed by unplugging the Deck) forcibly puts the Deck into Battery Storage mode without being able to access the BIOS.
He then plugged it back in, exciting battery storage mode and booting the deck.
I would guess it’s probably focused on ones that are prosecutable as threats. That would be enough for it to not be protected as free speech.
We’ll have to wait to know for sure though.
Sounds like it comes with a refillable cartridge, but you can also use off the shelf HP cartridges.
And since there’s no DRM, 3rd party cartridges will work too.
I’ve also run into games on steam that specifically failed to identify my language on Linux. I can generally tell what options I need to pick to change a language back to English, but some langauges like Chinese and Korean are difficult to to navigate.
Yeah, it’s definitely more for a specific groups of people, such as those who play old untranslated emulated titles and such.
People are looking at the price of the steam decks and non-pro versions of consoles.
The m.2 SSD is easily accessible, it comes with a 2230 m.2 (same size as the Steam Deck), but has room to install a full size 2280 m.2. It only has room for 1 though, so while you can upgrade to a larger size you can’t add a second. Swapping out the m.2 will require cloning your drive or reinstalling SteamOS to the new drive.
There’s also a high speed microSD slot for even easier space upgrades, and microSDs with games can be swapped directly between the Deck and Machine.
For RAM, it uses laptop DDR5. It is user upgradable, but isn’t as easy to access as the m.2 drive is.
They were supposedly able to take a loss on the original Steam Decks, at least the lower priced 64GB models. There’s also an argument to be made that this device is primarily competing with consoles, where Steam doesn’t have a monopoly. Steam also allows games from other stores to be run on their unlocked device, it’s not their fault that Epic decided not to make an offical linux launcher.
But I’m not a lawyer, and I’m sure Epic will try to start anti-trust investigations over anything they can.
They’re probably going to have an option to buy it bundled with the Steam Machine for a discount, if the release it early then people who buy it as a stand-alone would feel like they missed out on that deal.